Page 99 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TP
P. 99

Textile & Handloom                                                                Exercise 1.6.60

            Shawl Weaving Artisan - Wet Processing

            Dyeing and fastness properties of natural dyes

            Objectives : At the end of this exercise you shall be able to
            •  develop natural dyeing recipes with good fastness properties.

              Requirements

               Materials
               •  Dyeing container                  - 1 No.       •  Sharpener                           - 1 No.
               •  Gas heater                        - 1 No.       •  Eraser                              - 1 No.
               •  Thermometer                       - 1 No.       •  Notebook                            - 1 No.
               •  Stirring rod                      - 1 No.       •  Different natural dye sources       - 1 No.
               •  Pencil                            - 1 No.


            PROCEDURE

            TASK 1: Dyeing process
            1  Extract  the  dye:  Extract  the dye from  the natural   5  Wait  for  the  dyeing  process:  Allow  the dyeing
               source using a solvent such as water.                 process to complete, which can take from 30 minutes
            2  Prepare the fabric: Wash and dry the fabric samples   to several hours.
               to remove any finishes or impurities.              6  Rinse  and  dry: Rinse  the fabric gently with cold
            3  Mordant the fabric: Apply a mordant to the fabric to   water and dry it according to the fabric’s care
               enhance colour fastness.                              instructions.
            4  Dye  the  fabric: Immerse the fabric in the dye
               extract and  heat the mixture to the recommended
               temperature.
            TASK 2: Fastness testing
            Light fastness test                                   5  Rate the color fastness based on the degree of color
            1  Cut a sample of the fabric to be tested, approximately   change, using a scale such as 1-5 (where 5 is the
               10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”).                              highest rating).
            2  Then place the sample in a light fastness tester or a   Rubbing fastness test
               natural sunlight for a specific period of time.    1  Cut a sample of the fabric to be tested, approximately
            3  Compare the color of the test specimen before and     10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”).
               after light exposure using a visual assessment.    2  Rub the  sample with a  white  cotton  cloth using a
            5  Rate the color fastness based on the degree of color   hand.
               change, using a scale such as 1-5 (where 5 is the   3  Evaluate the amount of color transferred to the white
               highest rating).                                      cotton cloth using a visual assessment.
            Wash fastness test                                    4  Rate the rubbing fastness based on the degree of
            1  Cut a sample of the fabric to be tested, approximately   color transfer, using a scale such as 1-5 (where 5 is
               10 cm x 10 cm (4” x 4”).                              the highest rating).
            2  Wash the sample  in a washing  machine  using  a   5  Evaluate  the results: Evaluate  the results of the
               standardized detergent and water.                     fastness  tests  and assign a  rating based on the
            3  Rinse the sample thoroughly and dry it.               degree of color change or fading.
            4  Compare the color of the test specimen before and   Ask trainees write all the details you observe during the
               after washing using a visual assessment.           process in the below mentioned table 1.
                                                            Table 1

                     Natural   Dyeing    Colour fastness   Colour fastness to   Colour fastness      Fastness
              S.No.
                       dye     method        to light           washing           to rubbing     properties rating
                1
                2
                3
                4

                                                                                                                87
   94   95   96   97   98   99   100   101   102   103   104